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Concrete
Strides for FermentingTanks
Concrete tanks find solid support from California industry
by Jane Firstenfeld
Paso Robles, Calif. -- Concrete fermenters have long been a staple
of the European industry, as they were with the immigrant winemakers
of the New World, but with the advent of oak barrels and stainless
steel tanks, the market for them crumbled decades ago. In the past
few years, however, some progressive makers of high-end wines rediscovered
their advantages.
Last year concrete tanks in a variety of shapes and sizes became
more accessible to the California market, when Artisan Barrels in
Berkeley became an importer for Burgundy's Nomblot line, and an established
Central Coast concrete vendor to the construction industry began to
manufacture them under the name VinoVessel.
Charles Thomas, longtime winemaker at Napa
Valley's Rudd Estate and now at Quintessa, is credited with starting
the vogue when he and Delia Viader of Viader Vineyards shared the
shipping costs on a container of odd-shaped concrete vessels from
Nomblot (See "Concrete Fermenters:
From Old School to New World," Wines & Vines, November 2005).
Thomas continued importing them until last year, when Artisan took
over the Nomblot franchise. In his first year of selling them, Artisan
owner Jérôme Aubin told Wines & Vines, the Nomblots accounted
for about 15% of his business, which also includes oak barrels
and stainless steel tanks.
The 150-gallon Pyramid from VinoVessel has a slanted base and front-access
manway.
Advocates say that concrete preserves wine character, mouthfeel
and volume by providing consistent micro-oxygenation like that of
barrels. Concrete also has the advantage of maintaining temperatures
through its inherent insulating characteristics. Aubin says that oak
adjuncts can be used if desired.
Micah Utter, president and CEO of VinoVessel
and its parent company, Advanced Concrete and Construction Inc.,
grew up on the Central Coast, was intrigued by the wine business,
and was inspired to enter the field when prompted by Josh Beckett,
winemaker at Paso Robles' Peachy Canyon, who was looking for a local
source for concrete tanks. Utter spent much of last year in research
and development, and already has delivered and installed eight of
his whimsically shaped and named vessels. They are made of raw concrete
(no lining), the interiors plastered with slurry for a smooth finish.
Each has a standard 21 x 16-inch manway in the front and at least
a 16-inch manway on the top, for ease of access. VinoVessel recommends
proxyclean or ozenator for sanitation: "Do not use hot water," Utter
cautioned, because the stainless steel fittings would expand and
might cause cracking.
Stock VinoVessels range from the 150-gallon
Pyramid to the 970-gallon Oval; depending on the model, they weigh
between 4,500 to 10,000 pounds. VinoVessel provides delivery and
installation for these heavyweights, which, Utter estimates, will
remain serviceable, "with proper
care, probably around 10 years." If they become discolored or
otherwise unsuitable for fermenting, he adds, they can be epoxy-lined
for neutral storage, no longer porous but retaining concrete's
useful thermal properties.
Aubin points out that Nomblot has delivered
as many as 18,000 tanks to wineries in Burgundy, and has had to
replace only three since 1923, which hints at a much longer lifespan
for concrete vessels. He points out, too, that the current, smaller
models, although by no means portable, can be moved if necessary,
unlike old-style "poured-in-place" tanks.
Utter mentions that, due to many wineries'
concerns with aesthetics, he was "Shooting for an appealing, attractive look." In
addition to the fanciful but practical shapes he concocts, he's also
been exploring decorative concepts including staining the exterior
to provide color while retaining porosity, and sandblasting logos
or other devices to customize the tanks. "I'd like to try making
some that look like simulated rocks for wine caves," he says
hopefully.
Because of his roots in earthquake-vulnerable
California, Utter has also developed "seismic-friendly" legs
to safely elevate the tanks.
Prices for VinoVessels start around $5,300USD,
depending on size and options. Artisan's price list starts at $5,051
USD for a 158-gallon "egg" tank.
Utter says he can deliver a VinoVessel in about eight weeks; Aubin
advises that California vintners order Nomblots for this year's
vintage within the next two weeks. |
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